2017年06月六级第3套仔细阅读 Passage 1 原文翻译及答案解析

We live today indebted to McCardell, Cashin, Hawes, Wilkins, and Maxwell, and other women who liberated American fashion from the confines of Parisian design. Independence came in tying, wrapping, storing, harmonizing, and rationalizing that wardrobe. These designers established the modern dress code, letting play suits and other active wear outfits suffice for casual clothing, allowing pants to enter the wardrobe, and prizing rationalism and versatility in dress, in contradiction to dressing for an occasion or allotment of the day. Fashion in America was logical and answerable to the will of the women who wore it. Implicitly or explicitly, American fashion addressed a democracy, whereas traditional Paris-based fashion was prescriptive and imposed on women, willing or not.

今天，我们感激McCardell、Cashin、Hawes、Wilkins和Maxwell以及其他女性，她们将美国时尚从巴黎设计的束缚中解放出来。独立体现在系扎、包裹、储存、协调和合理化衣橱方面。这些设计师建立了现代着装规范，让休闲套装和其他运动服装足以作为日常服装，允许裤子进入衣橱，并推崇着装中的理性主义和多功能性，这与为特定场合或一天中不同时段而着装的做法相矛盾。美国时尚是合乎逻辑的，并响应穿着它的女性的意愿。无论是隐含的还是明确的，美国时尚体现了一种民主，而传统的基于巴黎的时尚是规范性的，强加给女性，无论她们愿意与否。

In an earlier time, American fashion had also followed the dictates of Paris, or even copied and pirated specific French designs. Designer sportswear was not modeled on that of Europe, as "modern art" would later be; it was genuinely invented and developed in America. Its designers were not high-end with supplementary lines. The design objective and the business commitment were to sportswear, and the distinctive traits were problem-solving ingenuity and realistic lifestyle applications. Ease of care was most important: summer dresses and outfits, in particular, were chiefly cotton, readily capable of being washed and pressed at home. Closings were simple, practical, and accessible, as the modern woman depended on no personal maid to dress her. American designers prized resourcefulness and the freedom of women who wore the clothing.

在更早的时候，美国时尚也曾遵循巴黎的指令，甚至抄袭和盗用具体的法国设计。设计师运动服装并非模仿欧洲的，就像“现代艺术”后来那样；它是在美国真正发明和发展的。其设计师并非高端且有附加产品线。设计目标和商业承诺都专注于运动服装，其独特特点是解决问题的创造力和现实生活方式的应用。易于护理最为重要：特别是夏装和套装，主要是棉质，便于在家洗涤和熨烫。闭合方式简单、实用且易得，因为现代女性不依赖个人女仆为她着装。美国设计师推崇机智和穿着服装的女性的自由。

Many have argued that the women designers of this time were able to project their own clothing values into a new style. Of course, much of this argument in the 1930s-40s was advanced because there was little or no experience in justifying (证明) on the basis of utility. If Paris was cast aside, the tradition of beauty was also to some degree slighted. Designer sportswear would have to be verified by a standard other than that of pure beauty; the emulation of a designer's life in designer sportswear was a crude version of this relationship. The consumer was ultimately to be mentioned as well, especially by the likes of Dorothy Shaver, who could point to the sales figures at Lord & Taylor.

许多人认为，这个时代的女性设计师能够将自己的服装价值观投射到新风格中。当然，在20世纪30-40年代，这一观点的提出很大程度上是因为几乎或完全没有基于实用性来证明（证明）的经验。如果巴黎被摒弃，美的传统也在一定程度上被轻视。设计师运动服装必须通过纯美标准以外的标准来验证；在设计师运动服装中模仿设计师的生活是这种关系的粗糙版本。消费者最终也需要被提及，尤其是像Dorothy Shaver这样的人，她可以指出Lord & Taylor的销售数据。

Could utility alone justify the new ideas of the American designers? Fashion is often regarded as a pursuit of beauty, and some cherished fashion's trivial relationship to the fine arts. What the designers of American sportswear proved was that fashion is a genuine design art, answering to the demanding needs of service. Of course these practical, insightful designers have determined the course of late twentieth-century fashion. They were the pioneers of gender equity, in their useful, adaptable clothing, which was both made for the masses and capable of self-expression.

仅凭实用性就能证明美国设计师的新理念吗？时尚常被视为对美的追求，有些人珍视时尚与美术的琐碎关系。美国运动服装设计师所证明的是，时尚是一种真正的设计艺术，回应服务的苛刻需求。当然，这些务实、富有洞察力的设计师决定了20世纪后期时尚的进程。他们是性别平等的先驱，其服装实用、适应性强，既为大众设计，又能实现自我表达。